THOUGHTS FROM OUR WINEMAKER
Philip Dowell

It is all About Style

I’ve always looked to making wines which were as true and distinctive of the vineyard and region on which the grapes where grown. These would be wines showing definite varietal character with a regional identity. In pursuing this, and having made wines in different areas, the one common element in the wines that I have made is that they have always shown a great deal of elegance. 

Some Grow Better Than Others

My preferred grape variety depends upon if I’m making wine or drinking it. I’ll always prefer making wine with grapes best suited to its region and vineyard site. There are a lot of varieties I like drinking but will never end up making because the region is not suitable for them. Pinot Noir is a variety I would say I like to work with because you can always try something different with it, but at the end of the day my preference is for whatever is going to make a good wine.

It Starts in the Vineyard

What I always look for in a wine is balance and this can equally be applied to a vine. All viticultural practices should be done so as to achieve balance in the vine. Balancing the crop load to avoid stress from over cropping, or promoting excessive vigour from having too little crop are easy vineyard practices. More difficult is managing moisture level towards and during harvest.  Too much water at harvest will inhibit ripening through excessive moisture uptake, but also conversely moisture stress during this ripening period will not allow the flavours to mature. However the most critical factor is to keep your vineyard disease free.

Winemaking In a Nut Shell

My winemaking philosophy is a balanced vine and a balanced wine. From a French perspective its about bring together the ‘terroir’, ‘elevage’ and ‘typicity’ of wine. The ‘terroir’ is the character of the grape from a specific vineyard site, ‘elevage’ is the progress the wine takes through the cellar during its maturation, and ‘typicity’ is the distinctive vinous character each wine has. With all three you end up with a unique and enjoyable product.

The Delicate Nature of Oak

The use of oak is dependant upon the style of wine being made and what enhancing effects are being made. Good wines can be made without oak if they already have the structure and balance being sought. A very expensive high end barrel doesn’t necessarily make your wine any better if it can’t support it, but it’s much better to use those barrels rather than cheaper ones which will only spoil your wine. My preference has always been for tight grain French oak but these days some excellent barrels are being made with American oak which may end up being better suited for the Canadian industry.